initial commit

README.md

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-Victorian smart home
+# Victorian smart home
 
 Version 1.0
 
@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ We're renovating an 1830s end-terraced home to bring it into the 21st century. T
 
 # Prerequisites:
 
-These are the key pieces of infrastructure that needed to be in place before we could get moving:
+These are the key pieces of infrastructure that needed to be in place before we could get moving. Quick note - everything I use is either (a) free + open source software / hardware or (b) inexpensive and hackable.
 
 ## (1) Home server
 
@@ -19,8 +19,10 @@ This is a relatively old hardware build, using a low-voltage intel CPU. I genera
 - Memory: 16GB DDR3 (2x8gb)
 - Case: Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced Mini ITX Tower Case
 - PSU: Corsair CSM 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply
-- Storage: 1TB SSD (for OS) + 12TB (Western Digital drives @ 4tb x 3)
+- Storage: 2.5" [1TB SSD](https://amzn.to/3zPVpHP) sitting in a [3.5" adapter](https://amzn.to/3JNwWHt) and 12TB ([4tb Seagate Ironwolf Drives](https://amzn.to/3AcucAi) x 3)
-- USB RTL-SDL: Nooelec NESDR SMArt v4 SDR (RTL2832U & R820T2-Based Software Defined Radio)
+- USB Zigbee: [Phoscon ConBee II](https://amzn.to/3bHqlli)
+- USB RTL-SDL: [Nooelec NESDR SMArt v4 SDR](https://amzn.to/3bFIgZP) (RTL2832U & R820T2-Based Software Defined Radio)
+- USB Tado TRV controller
 
 (fyi: amazon affiliate links above)
 
@@ -33,5 +35,71 @@ https://www.linuxserver.io/blog/2017-06-24-the-perfect-media-server-2017), thoug
 
 (2) Home Assistant OS - this is the brain of our whole smart home system. I can't provide extensive detail here, but if you want to run a system like I've got here, you could strip things down considerably to just run HAOS on a smaller RaspberryPi based computer, for around £100-200
 
+(3) 
+
 ## (2) Network infrastructure:
 
+- The house is wired with Cat6 ethernet wire running in 20mm round PVC conduits
+- [TekLager open-source router](https://teklager.se/en/products/routers/) running [PFSense](https://www.pfsense.org/) - I highly recommend TekLager and PFSense as enterprise class, hobbyist friendly firewalls
+- Network Downstairs: HP J9625A PoE+ (2620-24) Managed Switch - you can generally find used PoE gigabit switches by HP or Cisco on ebay for around £100
+- Network Upstairs: Ubiquiti Unifi US-8-150W Switch
+- Wifi: UAP-nanoHD hotspots (4)
+- The Zigbee USB sensor above creates a whole-home zigbee network, which is a low voltage wireless mesh network. This is terrific for sensors which can run off a small disc battery for more than a year in more cases!
+- The RTL-SDR sensor is basically a radio antenna in the server. I run [RTL433](https://github.com/merbanan/rtl_433) on the Debian server which basically detects and parses any incoming radio signal (e.g. RF). This means that we can purchase a cheap RF remote, sensors etc and the server can pick up the signal and integrate it into Home Assistant. In many cases, old tech you can get from a thrift store is given new life!
+
+So the house has Gigbit Ethernet, 2.4 / 5ghz Wifi, Zigbee mesh and RF networks all running (more on this below)
+
+# Sensors
+
+That's all the hardware and networking kit, now on to the fun, with our sensor network!
+
+## Moisture & temperature
+
+There are a number of issues with victorian homes, the main one you hear about being moisture. We had a damp inspector come to our house and tell us to remove half the plaster on the walls downstairs. I finished taking 4cm thick beautiful lime plaster (with horsehair!) from part of one wall and given that it was the middle of Autumn and pretty wet outside, was surprised to find that it was bone dry. Actually, I was more angry than surprised, given that I'd paid someone to inspect the home and they'd given me a quite specific recommendation. Turns out many RICS inspectors have no knowledge of pre-1940s homes or the ways that walls are intended to breathe moisture. A four hour conversation with [Pete Ward over at Hertage House restoration](https://www.heritage-house.org/contact-us.html) gave me the necessary background, and I've taken a more cautious approach, choosing to monitor moisture in the air and trends rather than using damp meters on walls. Thankfully I didn't get any further along and most walls remain intact. There were a few rooms that I was concerned about moisture in, given the ways that the kitchen cabinets and floor joists in the front room were completely rotted out! I'll spare you the long story, and say that in all cases the problems related to recent introductions of technology (an incorrectly installed damp proof course, cement floors in the back of the kitchen and broken rainwater guttering).
+
+When you're looking to purchase temp/humidity sensors, there's really no reason to DIY unless you're terribly bored. They can be purchased for barely more than you'd pay for raw parts. I'm partial to the Aqara temperature sensors. You can get these from the [official UK store](https://amzn.to/3bH2BOr) for £20 each. Being a patient man, I bought them directly from China via aliexpress.com for around £7-9 each and they came a month later. We have one of these in each room, which reports relative humidity and temperature for the room. They're pretty accurate and integrate painlessly with Home Assistant.
+
+TODO: add screen shot
+
+## Water Leaks
+
+Water leak sensors are in the same genre for me, and I have one of these under every sink and tap in the house. Same prices via [UK store](https://amzn.to/3C0QMgN) or China.
+
+## Outside Weather
+
+We keep track of outside conditions in a few ways. I'm running a cheap but accurate [Bresser weather station](https://amzn.to/3vSuf1u), which keeps track of all the important things. You can purchase expensive (like £400) weather stations that are wifi connected, but I can much more easily get data from this device using the RTL433 RF signal which the weather station uses to send information to the "wireless" display. Job done. Al this shows up in Home Assistant pretty seamlessly, and I can track historic weather conditions in Grafana (more on this later).
+
+## TBD
+
+I have three projects in the works, which will be a bit more DIY as there aren't good solutions already out there. I'll include details as they are developed, but here are the basic parameters for now:
+
+### (1) under-floor earth moisture monitoring
+
+Given the fact that most of our floors are suspended timber over bare earth, my current project in process is to deploy a series of wifi soil moisture sensors under the floors in key locations to test for unexpected water ingress which might damage floor joists. I had to remove all the joists under our front room which were above an cellar, but most joists in the house are still sound, and these are giant hand-hewn oak beams more than a century old. I'm hoping a bit of tech can ensure that I can proactively monitor for broken things that might be unnoticed at first like rainwater guttering but which could cause unexpected and unnecessary damage.
+
+### (2) airflow, fans, etc.
+
+We need to, long term, dry out the cellar a bit with some better airflow. I'd like to run a good cross-flow ventilation system, and the most sustainable options would involve air heat recovery and dehumidification. So you draw air into the room with a low-energy fan, dehumidify the incoming air (rather than the room) and extract heat before venting humid air out. You can see a commercial version of this which is sold by [VapourFlow](https://www.vapourflow.com/product-category/basement-ventilation/) with h/t to Pete Ward for recommending them. Their solutions are a bit too expensive for my taste, and they don't interface with DIY home monitoring, so a bit too proprietary for my taste. I'm planning to wire up fans and dehumidifiers in a similar kind of system, but using HA and Node Red as the brains rather than the fan so it can be replaced easily and inexpensively. Research pending, I'll share when I do some prototyping. 
+
+I'm also planning on putting the fans in bathroom and kitchen on a sonoff relay so I can track when they're off/on and automatically shut them off when a window is opened (windows have sensors on them too). This saves a bit of energy.
+
+### (3) water flow monitoring and automatic shut-off
+
+One of the key causes of water damage is water leaks, whether a sink or a pipe in a wall. An easy way to detect even invisible leaks is to monitor water flow levels and flag up unexpected flow. So I'm planning on installing flow hall sensors at key points in the plumbing, which I'll connect to ESP32 microprocessors and connect to Home Assistant using ESPHome. There are a ton of good tutorials on using ESP32 devices, which can be had for as little as £4 each if you buy direct from China and they provide a low energy bluetooth + wifi connection to whatever sensor you connect. ESPHome has really painless templates prepared for a whole bunch of devices, nearly anything you could think of actually. Unexpected egress of water will be flagged for inspection. 22mm brass compatible flow sensors run around £8-10 each, so not very expensive. I'm planning to couple these with zigbee-enabled water valves which basically just attach to the top handle of a ball valve. They're around £20 each.
+
+### (4) air quality sensors
+
+I've got a few sensors I'll be putting together using ESP32 microprocessors and ESPHome software to measure VoC, CO2 and PM25 particulates. These sensors are super cheap and sensors are not hard to assemble! I'm hoping to install these in places that are adjacent to smoke detectors, which I'm monitoring using RF sniffing (again) on that RTL-SDR device.
+
+## Heating
+
+One of the first upgrades we made to the house was to replace the gas boiler with a heat pump. After a fair bit of research, we settled on a Nibe heat pump. Nibe makes fantastic heat pumps, but their digital connection is pretty disappointing. But the upside of being a hacker is that I can take their great pump and whip up my own monitoring solution that is superior using open source tech.
+
+Nibe sells an expensive subscription to a monthly service which takes data off the heat pump running in your home, uploads it to their cloud and then licenses the content back to you as the homeowner. Not only is the service (and this is the case with most utilities where this is an upsell dreamed up in a board room and not a genuine product) pretty painful to use, but it's overpriced, and generally for anything running in my home, which I paid for, I don't want a subscription.
+
+The details are a bit complex, but most large appliances, since the 1970s have been built to report performance information using a serial connection and a simple protocol called ModBus. You'd seriously be surprised at how many modbus devices you have sitting around your house. Home Assistant makes modbus pretty easy to pull, and I've build some fairly snappy statistics pages which show performance data for our heat pump and the heating liquid at every stage in the system. I've been able to detect and correct several performance issues that our installer didn't notice, and which would never have shown up in regular maintenance, so a good reason to run a system like this!
+
+You can read more where I've written it all up here: [https://community.home-assistant.io/t/how-to-connect-to-nibe-heat-pump-without-the-cloud/381099]
+
+There's nothing wrong with radiators and hot water heating systems. I know water-based underfloor heating is the most efficient option, but in houses like ours, it's really impractical to try and put in new concrete floors. It's possible to work with limecrete as a breathable option, but radiators work fine for us. Half the rooms in this house didn't have any radiators at all, so I needed to learn a bit of plumbing (with thanks to Tony Jones at ASJ heating!) and managed to source radiators on Facebook marketplace and ebay. The key upgrade here was to go with [Tado smart radiator TRVs](https://amzn.to/3BWDiCz). There's no need for a thermostat as every single radiator is an individual heating zone. So if we turn on the woodstove, the system will progressively turn down radiators as rooms get warmer and avoid wasting energy. The system also allows us to run everything on schedules, and we can turn everything off when we're away as needed. The valves go on sale a few times a year and we picked ours up for around £35. The only down side of Tado system is that they use a proprietary wireless protocol and it's not a mesh system, so users sometimes have issues with range with the outermost radiators struggling to catch the signal of the USB controller. I got around this by using a 15m Active (powered) USB cable and moving the controller USB stick to a central position in the house. But in the future, I'd prefer to use zigbee TRVs. Trouble is, there aren't really any yet. Shelly has just announced WiFi TRVs at a good price point, but TBH, they're pretty ugly. I shall be watching this space closely...
+